The last few km

We have just 24km to go until we reach our final destination which will now be Kusadasi and it feels very very weird.

Having decided to end our trip slightly earlier than anticipated my feelings are in a real mix. I have loved riding and travel over the past two years yet already my thoughts are now on what next?

Right now I’m looking at jobs, dates and planning returning to my flat which I have only seen on brief visits in the past two years. I’m excited about being home with family and friends much closer yet thinking it will be weird not to be with my cycling buddy. I’ve ridden over 30, 000km but I’m looking forward to getting fit again and losing weight. Ironically, not being in control of your own diet so much means the additional bonus of losing a few pounds has not quite been realised.

To date, while we have been back to the UK a few times we have always still had the next tour in the diary. This time the next big date in my diary will be my 40th birthday and with a few months still to go between now and then, who knows exactly what I’ll be doing.

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There are exciting ideas and a different “to do” list is emerging. First, I’m just waiting to find out if I’ll be living in the UK or an independent Scotland. These really are interesting times.

Coming home

And so the time to end our cycle tour has arrived.

Despite planning to ride home for Christmas all the way from Turkey we have unfortunately decided it was time to revise our plans. Thankfully, this was a decision we could make and not something we had to do due to issues back home. Given the way our dreams to bike the globe started we are both so pleased to have got this far and even more happy that family health issues are “stable”.

We didn’t know each other when we set off, having met just three times before flying out to Seattle. Quite honestly, the trip could well have been cut short much more quickly had we not got on. Fortunately, while quite different in many ways, we seem to make a good team. I’m sure we will now be friends for life.

The opportunity to travel, particularly by bicycle, is so much more than just a journey by way of distance. Slowing down, taking time and not simply rushing past all that we see is sadly, something few of us are able to do. My diary was always full and while for me, I would rather that than simply wasting away on the sofa, I do think I will return with a different perspective.

Travel, and the ability to take time out of “normal” life is truly a phenomenal experience. It provides space to reflect, a different scene to peruse and provides an entirely new pair of glasses through which one then views home, life and the rest of the world. We only ever seem to read bad news – it’s the negative stories that make the press. We were always asked if we felt safe and while perhaps we have been lucky, it is the kindness of complete strangers throughout the world that I will never forget.

The strapline for my blog, and indeed the title of the book I plan to continue writing on my return is “The world at 15mph” and while I’m aware I’ll need to speed up a little I will never forget that in one of my favourite sections of our tour we barely reached 4mph! Before starting this ride I was always looking for the next thing and, given it’s certainly part of my nature, I’m sure I’ll always be a bit like that but I hope I have learnt to be more in the here and now.

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Cycle touring is not all about the destination and neither is is life. We don’t know what’s at the end but we can take time to enjoy the present. Neither of us know exactly what will happen next but then we didn’t know how the last two years would go either and it seemed to go ok….

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30, 000km.

As we cycled into Konya, Central Turkey yesterday we celebrated as we reached another momentus milestone….we had reached 30,000km. Arriving a day earlier than expected we had also ridden 100 miles with full panniers and camp  gear. It was certainly not intentional – there just wasn’t anywhere to stay on route. While the scenery itself was quite uneventful and there were regular overbearing smells of roadkill we still had big smiles.

So, for this blog I have decided to do a wee trip down memory lane with a few key photos and highlights from our trip so far….hope you enjoy it. There’s a few pics in this one too.

On July 7th 2012 we flew to Seattle. John, my cycle buddy, and I had only met three times before so this would be a relatively easy ride down the coast to San Francisco.  The Oregon coast line was stunning, they made some great ale and we made a new friend, Tom, who would ride with us much of the way. We were pretty chuffed when we arrived at the Golden Gate bridge. John had never cycle toured before and we got on OK. Result.

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With Japan as our next destination the challenges would increase as language and map reading would prove interesting. Still, we embraced the culture staying in traditional ryokans and love hotels and tried most of the available pot noodles. A fascinating trip all be it very hot, humid and hilly.

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However, it was our next trip into Nepal that would be our biggest challenge of all. We were taking our touring bikes and panniers around the Annapurna trek route. No tarmac and still the end of the monsoon season. We edged along cliffs, went through rivers and waterfalls and crossed many a precarious bridge. Eventually we arrived at the mountain pass at Throng-la, 5416m. This was not for the faint hearted….or those afraid of heights…ie me.

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Landslides

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Waterfall

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Heading over the pass

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Thorong la

From Nepal we cycled over the border into India riding mostly in Rajasthan, Tamil Nadu, Kerala and Goa. I love the colours, history and food of India – a country I had visited twice before. Soon we learnt the rules of the road ie biggest and loudest wins and we became accustomed to chai drinking with crowds of locals.

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This was the end of our first five month tour…next Africa. We were joining a group trip from Cairo to Capetown. It took me a while to adjust to losing my independence though having decided this trip was just different I eventually settled in. Run by Tour D’Afrique the trip also ran as a race and I eventually won a day…on the last day of road riding! Despite having to bus through Kenya given elections and taking a few days off from exhaustion this was a phenomenal ride. Along with the wildlife highlights included sandstorms in Sudan and riding naked for a day in Namibia. What a giggle. If only the kids in Ethiopia didn’t throw rocks!

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Our third trip would take us to South East Asia though first we decided to ride through France and Italy to avoid the monsoon period. Leaving Epernay we rode over the Alps to San Foca in Southern Italy. On the way we would watch the Tour despite France on Alpe d’huez…obviously we had to ride it to. We were joined by Thijs, one of our fellow riders from Africa.

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Soon we were in Singapore and had a route planned through Malaysia, Thailand, Laos, Vietnam, Cambodia and back to Thailand. With shorter visas than anticipated and roads lost to landslides our plans constantly changed….but that’s the beauty of cycle touring.

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Our fourth tour took us to New Zealand and Australia. We caught up with many friends – old and new – and enjoyed incredible rides and views. While the drivers were not so pleased to see us we were treated warmly by many. We both missed history yet the fact that these countries are much newer to habitation (aside from much earlier Aboriginal settlement) is what keeps the landscape more unspoiled.

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While Australia was not my favourite country to ride the site at Uluru was mind blowing.

We’re on our last trip now…riding home from Turkey back to the UK.

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The hospitality has been so humbling and Turkey really is a joy.

I have many memories and stories from the ride so far, thousands of photos to sift and new friends too. Here’s hoping the last 6,000 or so km will be just as much fun.

Here is one last pic….what a day this was….riding naked in Namibia!

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A big thank you for all your support and encouragement so far. It means so much.
x

30, 000km.

As we cycled into Konya, Central Turkey yesterday we celebrated as we reached another momentus milestone….we had reached 30,000km. Arriving a day earlier than expected we had also ridden 100 miles with full panniers and camp  gear. It was certainly not intentional – there just wasn’t anywhere to stay on route. While the scenery itself was quite uneventful and there were regular overbearing smells of roadkill we still had big smiles.

So, for this blog I have decided to do a wee trip down memory lane with a few key photos and highlights from our trip so far….hope you enjoy it. There’s a few pics in this one too.

On July 7th 2012 we flew to Seattle. John, my cycle buddy, and I had only met three times before so this would be a relatively easy ride down the coast to San Francisco.  The Oregon coast line was stunning, they made some great ale and we made a new friend, Tom, who would ride with us much of the way. We were pretty chuffed when we arrived at the Golden Gate bridge. John had never cycle toured before and we got on OK. Result.

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With Japan as our next destination the challenges would increase as language and map reading would prove interesting. Still, we embraced the culture staying in traditional ryokans and love hotels and tried most of the available pot noodles. A fascinating trip all be it very hot, humid and hilly.

image

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However, it was our next trip into Nepal that would be our biggest challenge of all. We were taking our touring bikes and panniers around the Annapurna trek route. No tarmac and still the end of the monsoon season. We edged along cliffs, went through rivers and waterfalls and crossed many a precarious bridge. Eventually we arrived at the mountain pass at Throng-la, 5416m. This was not for the faint hearted….or those afraid of heights…ie me.

image

image

Landslides

image

Waterfall

image

image

Heading over the pass

image

Thorong la

From Nepal we cycled over the border into India riding mostly in Rajasthan, Tamil Nadu, Kerala and Goa. I love the colours, history and food of India – a country I had visited twice before. Soon we learnt the rules of the road ie biggest and loudest wins and we became accustomed to chai drinking with crowds of locals.

image

This was the end of our first five month tour…next Africa. We were joining a group trip from Cairo to Capetown. It took me a while to adjust to losing my independence though having decided this trip was just different I eventually settled in. Run by Tour D’Afrique the trip also ran as a race and I eventually won a day…on the last day of road riding! Despite having to bus through Kenya given elections and taking a few days off from exhaustion this was a phenomenal ride. Along with the wildlife highlights included sandstorms in Sudan and riding naked for a day in Namibia. What a giggle. If only the kids in Ethiopia didn’t throw rocks!

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Our third trip would take us to South East Asia though first we decided to ride through France and Italy to avoid the monsoon period. Leaving Epernay we rode over the Alps to San Foca in Southern Italy. On the way we would watch the Tour despite France on Alpe d’huez…obviously we had to ride it to. We were joined by Thijs, one of our fellow riders from Africa.

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Soon we were in Singapore and had a route planned through Malaysia, Thailand, Laos, Vietnam, Cambodia and back to Thailand. With shorter visas than anticipated and roads lost to landslides our plans constantly changed….but that’s the beauty of cycle touring.

image

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Our fourth tour took us to New Zealand and Australia. We caught up with many friends – old and new – and enjoyed incredible rides and views. While the drivers were not so pleased to see us we were treated warmly by many. We both missed history yet the fact that these countries are much newer to habitation (aside from much earlier Aboriginal settlement) is what keeps the landscape more unspoiled.

image

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While Australia was not my favourite country to ride the site at Uluru was mind blowing.

We’re on our last trip now…riding home from Turkey back to the UK.

image

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The hospitality has been so humbling and Turkey really is a joy.

I have many memories and stories from the ride so far, thousands of photos to sift and new friends too. Here’s hoping the last 6,000 or so km will be just as much fun.

Here is one last pic….what a day this was….riding naked in Namibia!

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A big thank you for all your support and encouragement so far. It means so much.
x

Flags, pride and independence?

Depicting a white crescent moon and star on a red background the Turkish flag is everywhere. Turkey is a proud nation though I would say it’s also not the only flag adorned place we have ridden through. Thailand, Malaysia, the USA and closer to home, Denmark, all show off their colours.

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Back home the story is much more complex. We are a nation comprised of four countries with a population made up of individuals from all over the globe. We have our own traditions and have also accepted and shown tolerance for the beliefs and customs of others. I’m proud to live in a country like that yet I would be much more hesitant to hoist a flag. Sadly being proud to be British has been overtaken by the far right and flags only really seem to fly when there’s a football game on.

I am English, living in Scotland and right now the debate on whether Scotland should be independent dominates news and discussion. I’m really proud to live in Scotland. It’s such a beautiful country – rugged landscapes, dramatic scenery and buildings and history some of which of course is linked to previous battles on the ownership of land.

Many people are still debating on which way to vote. Some will of course go with their heart regardless of outcome – this is a chance they have been waiting on for a long time. For me, my head would tell me that economically there still need to be much more clarification and that unity is a better proposition. There are just too many unknowns. I am course also fully aware that I am English and in my mind that’s also equal to being British.

However….putting the unknowns to one side there is a strong part of me – a very strong part – that sees the potential for a more social and environmental vision, much more akin to the community I prefer and I can’t help feeling that this vote is also a real opportunity.  In addition to feeling there are too many unanswered questions, I fear for society outside of Scotland should it’s balance in UK politics be lost and I care greatly about this too. This is not just a debate for Scotland and I want the social and environmental vision of Scotland to be UK wide.

Only time will tell whether we are counting the cost of independence or regretting an opportunity to work towards a country with a greater vision for equality and a greater respect for it’s environment. Whichever way it goes I’ll still be proud to be English, proud to be British and proud to live in Scotland though I still won’t feel comfortable flying any of the flags and I can’t help feeling that’s sometimes just a little sad.

Hospitali-tea.

Have a cup of tea…have another one….love -er-ly cup of tea.

Oh my. I have never, ever known such hospitality. I really am turning down cups of tea.

My relationship with tea goes back a long time. I’m sure I probably even had tea in my bottle as a baby. My gran always had the kettle on and the teapot was always ready to be poured. While my day may start with a wee tipple from a coffee bean, once mid morning arrives you will never see me turn down a cuppa. In fact my tea drinking has even earned me the nickname “nanna Nao” after I shockingly turned down watching the rugby with a beer for a nice cup of earl grey. I’ve sampled tea in Darjeeling, tried the Ceylon in Sri Lanka and of course, have been to the obligatory tea ceremony while in China but I have never been “tea-ed out” until this current trip to Turkey.

While many will often think of raki (that clear aniseed headache inducer that tastes okay when you drink it here) as a key Turkish tipple it pails into insignificance compared the the social aspects of a Turkish cay (chay). Served black in small glass tumblers they drink it by the bucket load.

Since leaving Trabzon the welcome we have received here has been phenomenal. On our toughest ride day we were offered chay ….twice, bought lunch and were then bought dinner. We have stopped in shops that have not charged us, been invited into people’s homes and of course, get beeps and thumbs up while cycling along. This generosity to two strangers on bikes continues to overwhelm us and despite reading such awful stories in the  news it restores one’s faith in human nature.

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So, we have actually now turned down tea. If we stopped at every invite we would never make it home for Christmas. We are often asked if we feel safe. Actually, we mostly feel humble.

Thank you Turkey. Your kindness is truly incredible.

Riding home for Christmas

After a short diversion via a wedding in Denmark we arrived in Turkey, Trabzon to be precise. It was from here that we would start what is for now our last bike tour. With around 30, 000km so far and 28 countries visited we have had an amazing time. I love travel and, for the most part, find cycling a fabulous way to meander through a country. However, sadly we are unable to just keep going and sooner or later we knew we would be planning the final stages. It seems sooner has arrived.

While we had been unable to do our trip in one go, having had to make return visits to see family, we were both in agreement on one thing. For our final trip we wanted to ride both in and out of the UK. We left in July, via Denmark as I said and we then needed to work out where we could start our journey home from to be back for Christmas. We had heard so many positive stories from cyclists who had been through Iran and this was where we really wanted to begin our journey. Unfortunately we came to the conclusion that this may be too far given all the other places we want to see on our way. An Iranian Visa would be costly and this was a place we didn’t want to rush through. So, Trabzon it is.

I have been to Turkey once before – to watch the eclipse in 1999 and John, my cycle buddy, has been on numerous occasions. His sister lives here and so this was certainly a place he wanted to come and ride. On my last trip I also visited the Cappadocia region. I was backpacking then but I can’t resist going back again – this time with my bike of course. For those of you familiar with Turkish geography you will know we are not then heading straight back. Starting in the North, on the Black Sea coast we will go to the central region, where Cappadocia can be found before continuing to go further out of our way through Antalya and Olu Deniz, on the South coast, Pammukale and Kushidasi, inland and West before finally going through Istanbul and into Bulgaria.

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Then it got tricky. There are so many places we then wanted to see. Eventually we have opted to go through Roumania,  Hungary, Slovakia,Poland, Germany and The Netherlands. We may still make variations, do additional loops and change our final ferry crossing point but for now we have a route we are really looking forward to, a ride out group for our ferry ( other guests at the wedding) and simply a rough return date for mid December. Exactly what happens between now and then will become apparent in time and no doubt, if you keep reading, you’ll get to find out.